Vampire shrimp (Atya gabonensis) care guide

Group
Shrimp
Other names
African filter shrimp, African fan shrimp, Gabon shrimp, Viper shrimp, Blue rhino shrimp, Atya sculptata, Euatya sculptilis
Family
Atyidae
Origin
Rivers of West Africa, from Senegal to the Democratic Republic of the Congo
Water
freshwater
Maximum size
15 cm
Temperature
23–29°C
pH
6.5–7.8
Hardness
6–15 dGH, 3–10 dKH
Minimum tank
100 litres
Care level
intermediate
Temperament
peaceful
Lifespan
5 or more years

Care

The vampire shrimp is a large, gentle filter-feeding shrimp from fresh waters of West Africa, ranging from Senegal to the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Despite the name, it is completely harmless. Older South American records turned out to be a different species, probably Atya scabra. It can reach about 15 cm. Colour varies from creamy white through rusty brown to a deep blue, and one shrimp may change colour several times in a year; harder water is believed to favour the blue form. Atya sculptata and Euatya sculptilis are old synonyms. Set-up: a mature tank of at least 100 litres with plenty of rock, wood and caves, because it hides when moulting. It needs moderate to strong current, so place it where a filter outlet or powerhead runs across a perch, such as a branch or rock. It sits facing into the flow with its fan-like claws open to catch particles. Water: 23–29 °C and pH 6.5–7.8 per Wikipedia. Keep the tank stable, with zero ammonia and nitrite; it is sensitive to both. Feeding guide: a shrimp sitting in the flow and fanning is feeding well. If it starts walking the bottom and sifting sand, it is short of food. Feed fine particles into the current several times a week. Copper: copper-based medicines and some plant fertilisers are toxic to shrimp, snails and most other invertebrates. Never treat a tank holding them with copper, check the label of any fertiliser or medicine, and keep nets and buckets used for copper-treated tanks separate. Vampire shrimp are noted as very sensitive to fish medicines, and copper kills them. Sources: Wikipedia (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atyagabonensis). Checked October 2026.

Diet

An omnivorous filter feeder. It uses feathery fans on its front legs to strain fine particles out of moving water. In a well-established tank it collects suspended organic matter, but most need extra food: finely powdered fish food, spirulina powder, crushed flake, baby brine shrimp or specialist filter-feeder foods. Spot-feed by releasing the food upstream of the shrimp with a pipette so it drifts into its fans. It also picks at biofilm and detritus on the bottom.

Breeding

Sexes can be told apart by the larger, more robust front legs of males. Like most Atya, it has larvae that need brackish or sea water to develop before the young return to rivers, so it does not breed in freshwater aquariums. There are no reliable reports of captive breeding, and almost all are wild-caught.

Compatibility and tank mates

Peaceful with all but the smallest tankmates, and not a threat to fish, snails or other shrimp. Keep it with peaceful community fish that will not nip it, such as tetras, rasboras, peaceful barbs, corydoras and loaches that are not aggressive. Avoid large cichlids, crayfish and fish big enough to tackle it while it is soft after moulting. It does well with bamboo shrimp, which also filter-feed.

Last updated 8 October 2026. Community-edited care guide on Aquatic-Auctions.

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