Florida fighting conch (Strombus alatus) care guide
- Group
- Snails
- Other names
- Fighting conch, Strombus pugilis alatus, Strombus crenulatus, Strombus pyrulatus
- Family
- Strombidae
- Origin
- Western Atlantic from North Carolina and Florida through the Gulf of Mexico to eastern Mexico, surface to 183 m
- Water
- saltwater
- Maximum size
- 11 cm
- Temperature
- 22–26°C
- pH
- 8.1–8.4
- Hardness
- dKH 8–12, SG 1.023–1.025
- Minimum tank
- 150 litres
- Care level
- intermediate
- Reef safe
- yes
Care
The Florida fighting conch is a true conch from the warm western Atlantic. The heavy shell is orange-brown with short spines on the shoulder and a flared outer lip, reaching about 11 cm, though aquarium specimens are usually smaller. It is very similar to the West Indian fighting conch, Strombus pugilis; some scientists treat the two as one species and others as separate species or subspecies, and they are often sold under each other's names. The name 'fighting' comes from its habit of using its sharp operculum to push and leap along. Tank set-up: conchs need sand. Give a mature tank of 150 litres or more with a deep, open sand bed of fine to medium grain and plenty of room to roam. It cannot live on bare-bottom tanks or in tanks where all the sand is covered by rock. Water: about 22–26 °C, pH 8.1–8.4, dKH 8–12 and specific gravity 1.023–1.025. Keep nitrate low and acclimatise slowly. Clean-up crew: it grazes film algae, diatoms, cyanobacteria and detritus on the sand surface, turning the top layer as it goes and keeping the sand bright. One conch can work quite a large sand bed. In a small or very clean tank it may run out of food, so supplement with sinking algae wafers and pellets. Our sources cover its taxonomy, range and size but not its aquarium care; the figures are general guidance, not from a source. Copper: copper-based medicines are toxic to shrimp, snails and most invertebrates, and some plant fertilisers carry copper too. Never treat a display tank holding this animal with copper; treat fish in a separate hospital tank, and drip-acclimatise new arrivals slowly. Sources: Wikipedia (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strombusalatus). Checked October 2026.
Diet
Grazer of film algae, diatoms, cyanobacteria and detritus on sand. Supplement with sinking algae wafers, spirulina tablets and dried seaweed when the sand bed is bare.
Breeding
Sexes are separate and fertilisation is internal. Females lay long, sticky egg strings in the sand, and the larvae are planktonic. Conchs occasionally lay eggs in aquariums, but raising the larvae is rarely achieved; fighting conchs are farmed commercially, so captive-bred stock is sometimes available.
Compatibility and tank mates
Peaceful and reef safe; it does not harm corals, fish or other invertebrates. At risk from triggers, puffers, large wrasses, large hermits and some crabs. Two or more may compete for food in a small tank.
Last updated 8 October 2026. Community-edited care guide on Aquatic-Auctions.